Skincare Guide  ·  Pore Care

How to minimize pores: what actually works and what doesn't

If a product ever claims to "close" or "permanently shrink" your pores, that is marketing, not dermatology. Pores are openings in your skin tied to hair follicles and sebaceous glands; their structural diameter is set by genetics, age, and UV history. What visibly changes them is what sits inside them and how well the tissue around them is maintained. This guide covers the mechanisms, the evidence, and the routine that actually moves the needle.

01 //Why pores look large in the first place

Pores are the surface openings of hair follicles. Each one connects to a sebaceous gland that produces sebum. When sebum production is high, dead skin cells accumulate, or the surrounding dermis loses structural support, the pore opening appears wider and deeper than it otherwise would.

There are three main drivers, and they often compound each other:

• Excess sebum and debris. When sebum and keratinocytes fill the follicle, the opening stretches to accommodate them. This is the most addressable factor through skincare, and it is what you can see shift in weeks, not months. Read more about the relationship between sebum and skin texture in our guide to niacinamide for oily skin.
• UV-driven collagen and elastin degradation. The dermis around pore openings acts like scaffolding. When UV radiation breaks down collagen and elastin, that scaffolding weakens and pores appear to spread and sag. This is slow and cumulative, which is why people in their 40s and 50s often notice pores that look larger than they did at 25, even if their skin type has not changed.
• Genetics and hormonal activity. Androgen hormones drive sebaceous gland activity. People with higher androgen sensitivity tend to produce more sebum and therefore have more dilated pores, particularly in the T-zone. This is not a problem to "fix," but it is a reason oil control matters more for some people than others.

There is a fourth category worth separating out: sebaceous filaments. These are the gray or tan dots you likely see on your nose and chin. They are not blackheads; they are normal anatomy. Every follicle that produces sebum has them. They can look like enlarged pores, and they are responsive to consistent cleansing and exfoliation, but they will always come back because they are structural. See our full breakdown at sebaceous filaments vs blackheads.

02 //The honest truth about permanent pore size reduction

No topical product permanently shrinks pores. That claim, when you see it on a bottle, is cosmetic marketing language that exploits the fact that temporary improvements in pore appearance are real and measurable. The two things are genuinely different.

What topicals can do: keep the inside of the follicle clearer so less debris is pushing the opening wide, reduce sebum production so the gland is not constantly overfilling, and support the surrounding dermis so the tissue stays firm. All three make pores look smaller in photos, in mirrors, and to other people. None of them change the genetic structure of the follicle opening.

Cosmetic dermatologists ranked the following as the most-recommended ingredients for large pores in a 2025 Delphi consensus study among cosmetic dermatologists:¹ retinoids, niacinamide, and exfoliating acids. All three work through the mechanisms described above. None of them were described as "pore shrinking" in the actual clinical language, because that is not what they do.

03 //Oil control: niacinamide and cleansing

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that has one of the strongest evidence bases of any OTC skincare ingredient. For pores specifically, the mechanism that matters most is sebum regulation. A 2006 study ran two RCTs: in the first (n=100 Japanese subjects), 2% niacinamide significantly lowered measured sebum excretion rate at 2 and 4 weeks; in the second (n=30 Caucasian subjects), casual sebum was measurably reduced by 6 weeks.²

Reduced sebum means the follicle is less full, and a less full follicle looks smaller at the surface. A 2025 observational study using a serum containing 0.2% salicylic acid combined with 2% niacinamide found visible improvement in pore appearance alongside acne and skin quality measures at 8 weeks.³

Niacinamide also supports the skin barrier and suppresses inflammatory signals, which matter for the look of pores: inflamed skin around follicles makes them look more prominent. Multiple clinical trials in the niacinamide acne literature document pore appearance as a secondary endpoint, consistently reporting benefit.⁴

One note worth making honestly: a 2025 JAMA Dermatology study flagged a possible association between high oral nicotinamide doses and increased cardiovascular event risk in a retrospective EHR study.⁵ This is about high-dose oral supplementation, not topical cosmetic use. Topical niacinamide does not carry this signal; the dermatological and cosmetic literature does not raise a cardiovascular concern for topical application. Still, worth knowing the difference.

MAXXING's Clear Dominance serum combines niacinamide and zinc, which supports the look of oil control and skin texture. Zinc has sebostatic properties that pair with niacinamide's sebum-regulation mechanism.

Cleansing: the foundation that gets overlooked

No serum or treatment step works as well when there is a layer of sebum, sunscreen residue, and pollution sitting on the surface. Gentle, consistent cleansing twice daily is the step that lets everything else work. The key word is gentle. Over-stripping the barrier with harsh cleansers or hot water triggers a compensatory sebum surge, which is the opposite of what you want for pore appearance. A 2026 RCT (n=42) found that an amino-acid cleanser formulated with salicylic acid and ceramides reduced open comedones by 55% and improved hydration markers simultaneously, without disrupting barrier function.⁶ Look for a cleanser that removes excess sebum without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped. MAXXING's Fresh Start cleanser is a good starting point before applying any treatment serum.

04 //Exfoliation: salicylic acid and AHAs

Why salicylic acid (BHA) is the pore-specific exfoliant

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), meaning it is oil-soluble. This is the property that makes it uniquely useful for pore-related concerns: it can penetrate into the sebum inside the follicle, not just exfoliate the skin surface. AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble and work primarily at the surface level.

Inside the follicle, salicylic acid disrupts the bonds between dead skin cells (a property called desmolysis) and dissolves the sebaceous material that stretches the pore opening. A 2019 in vitro and animal study confirmed that SA also suppresses the AMPK/SREBP-1 lipogenesis pathway in sebocytes, actively reducing how much sebum the gland produces, and inhibits NF-kB inflammatory signaling.⁷

At OTC concentrations (0.5 to 2%), consistent daily use shows clear benefit. A 2024 RCT (n=150) found that an SA-based cream had a 62.2% responder rate vs 50.0% for a standard comparator wash at 12 weeks, with superior tolerability.⁸ A 2025 prospective study (n=42) using a 2% SA gel formulated with niacinamide and ceramides documented sebum reduction of 23.65%, hydration increase of 40.5%, and transepidermal water loss reduction of 49.26% at 21 days, with 100% participant satisfaction.⁹

The Cochrane systematic review (49 RCTs, 3,880 participants) found low-to-very-low quality evidence for SA versus tretinoin with no significant head-to-head difference, while noting that adverse events for SA were mild and transient across studies.¹⁰ The honest read: salicylic acid works for pore-related concerns, is well-tolerated, and accessible over the counter. It is not a miracle. Consistency matters more than concentration once you are in the 1-2% range.

AHAs as a complement, not a substitute

Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid work well alongside BHA for overall skin texture and tone. They resurface the outer layers of skin, which can make the area around pores look smoother and reduce the shadowing effect that makes pores appear deeper. They are especially useful for people dealing with post-inflammatory marks alongside pore concerns. If you are using both AHA and BHA, use them at different times (morning vs evening) or on alternating days to avoid over-exfoliation.

05 //Retinoids: the long game

Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives, including OTC retinol and prescription tretinoin) are the most well-studied class of cosmetic actives for long-term skin structure. They work through two routes relevant to pores:

• Accelerated cell turnover. Retinoids speed up the shedding of old keratinocytes. This prevents them from accumulating inside the follicle and contributing to congestion. The effect is visible within 4 to 8 weeks and directly reduces the debris load that makes pores look stretched.
• Collagen and extracellular matrix support. Over 3 to 6 months, retinoids stimulate fibroblast activity and support new collagen synthesis in the dermis. Firmer dermis around follicle openings means those openings look smaller. This is the same mechanism that makes retinoids useful for the look of fine lines and overall skin density.

OTC retinol is slower acting than prescription tretinoin because retinol must be converted to retinoic acid by skin enzymes before it is active. A 2016 observational study using a cosmeceutical combining retinol 0.5%, niacinamide, hexylresorcinol, and resveratrol found statistically significant skin quality improvements at 10 weeks.¹¹ A 2024 consensus guide from international anti-aging dermatologists placed retinoids in the essential tier for facial aging management, including pore appearance.¹²

Retinoids require patience and a sensible introduction: start 2 to 3 nights per week, build to nightly over 4 to 6 weeks, and always use SPF the following morning. They increase photosensitivity while your skin adjusts. MAXXING's Smooth Criminal retinol serum is formulated for gradual introduction alongside a barrier-supportive moisturizer.

06 //SPF: the most underrated step for pore appearance

This is the ingredient most people already own but consistently underestimate for pore-specific goals. UV radiation is the primary driver of photoaging, which includes collagen and elastin degradation in the dermis. As that structural support breaks down over years, pore openings become increasingly lax and visible. Research on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity confirms that even sub-erythemal UV doses (not enough to cause visible redness) trigger collagen breakdown in the dermis.

There is no topical treatment that repairs advanced UV-induced structural damage as efficiently as SPF prevents it from accumulating. If your goal is to minimize how pores look in 5 and 10 years, the single highest-leverage habit is daily SPF 30 or higher on all UV-exposed areas, applied after your serum steps and before any makeup or finishing products.

For people using retinoids, SPF is not optional. It both protects the collagen you are actively building and prevents the UV-triggered MMP activation that would otherwise undo the remodeling work. Ceramide moisturizers and barrier-supportive products (like MAXXING's Damage Control ceramide moisturizer) help maintain the skin foundation that makes SPF protection more effective over time.

07 //Approaches to minimizing the look of pores

08 //Putting it into a daily routine

The good news is that none of these steps conflict. They stack sensibly into a twice-daily routine once you have introduced each ingredient gradually. Here is a practical framework:

Morning

1. Cleanser. Gentle, non-stripping. Use a formula suited to your skin type; if you are oily or acne-prone, a low-concentration salicylic acid cleanser used daily provides consistent follicle clearing without the same sensitization risk as a leave-on product. See our guide on how to get clear skin for a fuller routine breakdown.
2. Niacinamide serum. Apply to clean, slightly damp skin. 2 to 5% is the well-evidenced range for daily use. Let it absorb for 60 to 90 seconds before the next step.
3. Moisturizer with SPF, or separate moisturizer then SPF. This step protects the collagen work you are doing at night and prevents UV-driven pore dilation from progressing. SPF 30 minimum; SPF 50 if you spend significant time outdoors.

Evening

1. Cleanser. Remove the day: sunscreen, sebum, pollution, and any makeup. Double cleansing (oil cleanser first, then a water-based cleanser) is useful if you wear heavy sunscreen or SPF-loaded moisturizer.
2. BHA exfoliant (salicylic acid). A 0.5 to 2% leave-on toner or serum used after cleansing. If you are new to salicylic acid, start with every other night and build from there. You do not need to use it simultaneously with niacinamide every evening; alternating works well when your skin is still adjusting.
3. Retinoid (2 to 3 nights per week initially). Apply after your BHA has absorbed, or on separate nights if you find the combination sensitizing. Buffer with moisturizer applied before the retinoid if you experience dryness or peeling. Build to nightly use over 6 to 8 weeks.
4. Moisturizer. Seal and support the barrier. A ceramide-rich formula supports the skin through both BHA and retinoid adjustment periods and maintains the healthy barrier that makes all the above work better.

For a deeper dive into how niacinamide works specifically on oil production and sebaceous gland activity, see our full guide to niacinamide for oily skin.

09 //FAQ